Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is a huge D.O.C area in the Abruzzo region of Italy. Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wines can be, at their very best (see Valentini) epic whites capable of ageing, honeyed and nectar-esque and at their worst, like myself and pal Tina experienced last night, like Apple Tizer with some lemon Jif (no, hang on, Cif) mashed in for that extra kick.
So last night Italy were smiled upon by the footballing gods once more as red cards flew from the refs pocket and French players were sent cursing from the field. There wasn’t a seat in the house at the local pub in Piazza Ferretto, well, not a seat facing a TV anyway, so we sat in a cramped corner all the while being eyed up by those guys that sell the fake Gucci bags on the tartan rugs at Piazzale Roma. Much more Apple Tizer d’Abruzzo and today we’d both have our fill of faux Fendi accessories but alas resistance came easily.
Before the game we decided on Sushi and from the choice of 6 unnamed whites, we opted for the Trebbiano. I can’t tell you where it was from because the label said this, “Trebbiano“. That’s it folks. So really, it quite possibly wasn’t even a Trebbiano d’Abruzzo but this is my SEGUE (thank you Tara from Boston) to what I really want to talk about today which is Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and more specifically the expert Valentini production.
If you only try one Trebbiano d’Abruzzo make sure absolutely that it is a Valentini. There are hundreds of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo wines out there but Eduoardo Valentini was a traditionalist and the wines have that air of someone taking their time. You know when you can just tell a wine is low yield and human industry heavy? That’s what Valentini wines taste like. The sweet essence of blood, sweat and tears.
The techniques at the vineyard are fairly guarded and the wines of Valentini are not really typical of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo as a varietal but there are still unmistakable characteristics and the producer is pretty much universally agreed to be the regions best. Only 50,000 bottles come out of the estate each year, which is teeny tiny and an indication of the attention to detail. Eduoardo’s son, Francesco, now handles the operation. This is a producer who shunned the critics and media and as such, I can’t find a website for him to link up for you. However, I can recommend a wine with a tasting note… what a novel idea!?
Valentini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2004 – BUY – €33
A cloudy golden yellow in the glass with a super packed nose of total minerality as well as the usual lush honey and flower aromas, a little bit of stone fruit too. Lovely mouth feel, caressing and super stylish, complex with good length and a real sweetness on the finish, fruity and unabashed! Brava. 90 Points
Question of the Day?
What wine should I drink with Sushi if Martinelli’s is off the menu?