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Moschioni Pignolo is a wine and a grape that are yet to feature within Wine90 and I have to admit a little ignorance on the part of this producer, the wines having been mentioned and recommended to me, but slurped just once by yours truly. Having been blown away in a Venice apartment by Moschioni’s “Schiopettino” and to coincide with my trip back to Venice tomorrow I popped the cork on one of the wines most traditional to the area.
Pignolo is a local grape of Fruili, one of Italy’s alleged 2000 indigenous grapes, and with Moschioni, one of the most highly regarded producers of the region, we have here a prime example of the varietal. With low yields, natural filtration processes and with no insecticides at the vineyards, Moschioni is one of the new breed in the North taking it back to basics and with startling success. Considering that Pignolo means “fussy” in Italian (as this grape is notoriously hard to cultivate) and with low yields in the vineyards already, you can imagine that this is quite the wine, at quite the price. You’d be right. But worth it?
Absolutely. These wines are deep, bold and jammy and with the Moschioni Pignolo 5% of the grapes are partly dried, giving it a concentrated boost.
So if you want to give Pignolo a try but don’t fancy the $100 price tag then there are a few more respectable Pignolo producers vineyards (though not many). Choose from:
Jermann – $30 – (for QPR, this is the best)
Girolamo Dorigo – $70
Livon – $30
However it is in the hands of Moschioni that you find this tough little grape reaches its truest expression. Moschioni produces results of the same quality with his other red stunner Schiopettino (means – Gunshot). In 2004 this wine was awarded 95 points by Antonio Galloni. Schiopettino wines grown in the Colli Orientali del Friuli region are once again dark and med-full bodied but can take on, in the right hands, a Rhone quality with sensational aromatics, raspberry and spices. Really, a serious Italian wine fan needs to take home both the Pignolo and the Schiopettino from Moschioni, they are little masterclasses of Italian wine making.
Moschioni Pignolo 2004 – BUY – €54
Deep ruby red in colour the wine immediately strikes you with a harmonious nose, blackberries, dense jammy notes complemented by a thick and tannic mouth feel but flavourful and lingering on the tongue. Its a wine of tremendous balance, full bodied and delivering quality from start to finish. Brava 93 Points
Where can I buy this wine?
Americans – International Cellar – $110
Europeans – Enoteca Ronchi – €54
Brits – You can’t get it anywhere!
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If you had a dream vineyard, where would it be and what would you plant? Aaaaaah good question eh?