Campania Wines
Today I arrived back from my whirlwind tour of the Amalfi coast in an effort to learn more about Campania wines. Two years ago when I moved to Rome I had dreamed of heading down the coast and visiting Naples and its coastline. I’d been warned off visiting the area by my colleagues and friends, we can say that the Romans do not have a very high opinion of the Neapolitan work ethic, driving or dialect but what everyone in Italy can agree upon is the the quality of the food and drink of the region. The Amalfi coast is world famous for its quality local produce, its tomatoes and fish, with the Salt Cod from the region being among the most famous dishes in the world.


The Caruso Hotel’s restaurant, as well as having one of the finest al fresco views in the world, has a tremendous wine list and whilst in Campania, I decided to go for their only D.O.C.G red wine, the full and show stopping, Taurasi. “You know when you’ve been Taurasi’d” – these wines are always packing some alcohol and serious heat and are a far cry from the feminine Barolos I usually opt for but this time, it was a fitting accompaniment to my Paccheri and rack of Lamb.

Campania has had a crazy run of excellent vintages, with Taurasi, the most expensive and fully able to age wine of the region having success every year since 1993 with only the exception of the dire 2002 harvest. The wine comes from Aglianico grapes grown in the hills northeast of Avellino. The other notable red of the area, the Falerno Del Massico enjoy less international appeal but is a local favourite as is much cheaper than Taurasi. With the whites, Falaghina and Greco di Tufo are the best dry whites with the Fiano di Avellino offering something a little sweet.
Feudi di San Gregorio – By far an away the main players in Campania Wines, an internationally recognisable brand that is also capable of producing quality wines. 3,000,000 bottles a year with the producers top label, Taurasi Riserva Piano di Montevergine, taking a 95 point score from Parker in 1999. Also producing a sought after ITG wine “Serpico“.
Galardi – Tiny production of 15,000 bottles but taking all the accolades for the region. Produces the most expensive wines releasing top labels at $300 a bottle. Produces just one wine, the Terra di Lavoro, an Aglianico/Piedirosso blend capable of ageing.
Montevetrano – Another producer focusing their efforts on one award winning product, the IGT Montevetrano, a really fruity blended wine of Cabernet, Merlot and Aglianico. However with only 10% Aglianico this is pretty much a Super Tuscan producer just 200km too far south. 30,000 bottles per year.
Baring in mind I spent one day in Naples and one night in Ravello I still managed to try two bottles of wine which I think you’ll agree is impressive, or shameful. Either way, here they are.
Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici 2001 – BUY – €22
Dark purple in the glass, dark and heavy. On the nose the wine is all Taurasi with licorice, cherries and meat on the nose, a smoky barbeque style wine infact. On the palate the wine is full bodied and smooth and the fills every inch of your mouth, a real palate coating wine. Good length on the finish I suspect a few more years will do it some favours – 91 Points
Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina 2007 – BUY – €7
A straw yellow in the glass with green highlights. A great nose, honeyed, aromatic and tropical fruits coming forth. Really creamy bold palate, textured and fruity, some fresh hints of melon. I love this wine for QPR, a firm favourite – 88 Points
Where can I buy this wine? (Mastroberardino)
Europeans – Enoteca Carotenuto – €22
Americans – Corpwines – $38
Brits – Enoteca Carotenuto – £15
Question of the Day
Where is the most beautiful view in your world?
Our ski hill sits right above our town. My favorite view has always been the drive down after the lifts close at 9:30, lights sparkle from below as the car winds along the silent mountain road.
Sarah, the Feudi di S Greg’s Falanghina is not, I think, all Falanghina. It used to taste like that grape, less so now.