Foradori Granato 2015 is the first wine from Trentino to make the Wine90 blog. Probably not surprising, there are only a couple of estates in this north eastern Italian province that consecutively turn out top notch vino. The best known producer in Trentino and the most decorated by Gambero Rosso is the exceptionally well known; Tenuta San Leonardo – edit – who kindly added their comments to this article! Otherwise Trentino is known for high yields and, thus, bad wine but also for being home to the inimitable Elisabetta Foradori who single-handedly revived Teroldego.
Foradori is owned by my Italian wine heroine, Elisabetta Foradori, who crafts wines in an environment awash with machismo. Wine is macho, Italian wine is super macho and wine from the rugged Italian Alps… well, respect to Elisabetta, who doesn’t just hold her own (excuse me), she kicks ass in Trentino and produces arguably the best red wine in the region from the local Teroldego grape.
Wine bloggers can afford to be romantic about tough conditions, indigenous grapes and the battle to maintain a regions history, but the reality is winemaking is tough work, and selling these varieties to an international market hooked on sugar; tougher still. Unfortunately, its not well known that half of Teroldego’s DNA comes from Syrah, if it were, perhaps these wines would gain in popularity.
Teroldego was once a favourite in Italy, but like so many of her indigenous grapes slipped into obscurity until revived by a brilliant traditionalist with the Midas touch. This grape owes it’s re-found popularity to the indomitable Elisabetta. She alone is responsible for the resurgence of this full flavoured and moderately tannic red variety. Often compared to Zinfandel, and obviously, Syrah.
It is in Trentino, in the foothills of the alps, within the Foradori vineyards upon alluvial deposits and gravel and with Elisabetta’s careful hand that Teroldego has found its greatest expression. The most exciting thing about focusing on Italian wines are stories like these. Every year you hear about another varietal that had been crucially important to the region in times gone by – almost falling out of existence, only to be brought back to life once more by a proud local winemaker. It’s an exciting time in Italian wine and Elisabetta’s story, whilst extraordinary and dedicated is repeated in every region of Italy. There seems to be an underground society for the revival of indigenousness grapes in Italy; they just forgot to send my press pass.
The wine itself is unique and whilst us wine bloggers love to draw comparisons I’m going to resist temptation as to not do the wine a disservice. This is a wine of elegance produced under some harsh conditions with few peers to guide Elisabetta’s path.
Foradori Granato 2015 Review
Foradori Granato 2015 – BUY – £48
Deep in colour and rich in texture the wine bring forth intense notes of licorice, cherry and possesses a streak of minerality and freshness that are a fascinating combination ontop of this dark fruit. The wine has great acidity on the palate, is well structured and the palate is dense with firm tannins, the finish is long and fruitful. This is winemaking of tremendous quality. 93 Points
Although undoubtedly well made, this will be a wine that splits opinion. This is the wine to take to your best wine snobs house and trip them up with it blind, it’s not the wine for the in-laws Sunday lunch. If anyone picks this wine blind they should instantly be ordained as the new Jancis of your group.
Where can I buy the Foradori Granato 2015?
Uk wine buyers can find this wine available for £48 at Tannico